Matt Kramer on Wine: A Matchless Collection of Columns, Essays, and Observations by America’s Most Original and Lucid Wine Writer
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Oenophiles know: Matt Kramer is one of the world’s most distinguished and insightful writers on wine. Leader of the classic book Building Sense of Wine, Kramer has written about the theme for 32 years-and his full-page column in Wine Spectator has appeared in every issue for the last 14 years. The time is ripe for a retrospective, and here it is, covering topics from terroir to glassware to the various grapes and regions and personalities. Most of the essays are drawn from his work in Wine Spectator and The New York Sun, along with excerpts from his books.
The material remains fresh, vibrant, and compulsively readable.
The material remains fresh, vibrant, and compulsively readable.
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Matt Kramer, the well-known wine writer and columnist for Wine Spectator and the Oregonian, has finally collected his best writings into a new book, “Matt Kramer on Wine.” In two words? It’s terrific.
Full disclosure: I consider Matt Kramer a friend; I write about wine occasionally myself, and I reviewed his first book, “Building Sense of Wine,” for Wine Spectator many years ago. Heck, I’ll admit to being biased when it comes to Matt Kramer. I reflect he’s the most authoritative and original writer on wine in the U.S., and he’s also the most fun to read, by a long shot.
Although Kramer has been writing about wine since 1976, the columns and essays collected in “Matt Kramer on Wine” date from 1990 to the present, and represent the cream of this prolific writer’s output over that time period. Some of the writings are from Kramer’s books, such as a seminal essay on terroir from “Building Sense of Burgundy”, published in 1990 when the notion of terroir raised eyebrows among many wine professionals. (Now it’s sacrosanct.) Much of the rest of the material appeared in Wine Spectator, for which Kramer continues to write, or the New York Sun, which went out of business in 2008. And one remarkable piece, a lengthy and insightful profile of Italian wine icon Angelo Gaja, has never before seen the light of day in its entirety. It was originally commissioned by The New Yorker, but the piece got caught in a transition between high-profile editors and was “killed,” in editor-speak.
Reading “Matt Kramer on Wine” is like being a glide on the wall for some of the most intriguing wine moments of the past twenty years, as witnessed, interpreted, distilled and elucidated by Matt Kramer. You’ll learn why Austrian crystal magnate Georg Riedel likes to serve top-class French Champagne in a massive 37-ounce Burgundy glass (Kramer quips, “This is a glass so huge you could auction its air rights.”) You’ll find out whether persons vacuum-seal devices for wine bottles are any excellent. You’ll learn whether or not you need temperature-controlled wine storage (only if you want to delight in the wines eventually). You’ll smile as Kramer describes “low-cut dress syndrome,” as relates to wine. You’ll cheer as Kramer unsheathes his rapier wit and eviscerates fee-gouging restaurateurs and the wine lists we like to despise.
After you close the pages of this book (or turn off your Kindle), a few of your defined notions about wine may be blasted to smithereens. But I bet you’ll find yourself thinking more astutely about wine, and feeling more confident about your ability to identify the real stars on the wine shelf. If you want to drink better wine and delight in it to the fullest, “Matt Kramer on Wine” is one of the best funds you can make.
Reader’s Rating: 5 / 5